They are not the most exciting topic in the culinary world, yet are a staple in a majority of recipes. Some people hate them, because they can sting eyes and taint breath. I actually love onions; some of my best
They are not the most exciting topic in the culinary world, yet are a staple in a majority of recipes. Some people hate them, because they can sting eyes and taint breath. I actually love onions; some of my best recipes feature their sweet and savory flavors. I believe that onions can even be considered comfort food (i.e., caramelized onions and potatoes) So I am going to cast a “love” vote by giving you a few of my best onion recipes.
First, let’s talk types. As a general rule, I use the yellow (Spanish) onions and the Maui sweets for cooking in savory dishes and for caramelizing. White onions are used for salsa and stir-fries, while red onions are used in salads, sandwiches, and on pizza. If you want an extra zip, try shallots in roasting, sautéing, and in salad dressings. And if you can find little Cipollini onions, do try them. Roasting or braising will bring out their delicious sweetness and they are great to stuff with meat or cheese for pupu.
In choosing onions, pick those that are heavy for their size and do not have soft spots. Store them in a cool, dry place, and use all the onion that you chop. Even refrigerated, they can get “off” flavors after they are chopped and stored. So here are a few standout recipes and a tip from Julia Child: If you put whole onions in the refrigerator before cutting, no more tears.
Pickled red onions
Pickling enhances the sweetness and color of the onions; try using in salads and sandwiches. Recipe from Maria Helm Sinskey of Robert Sinskey Winery; makes 2 cups.
2 medium red onions, sliced thinly across grain
2 cups white vinegar
1/4 cup Kosher salt
3/4 cup sugar
1 bay leaf
Place sliced onions in a nonreactive (glass or ceramic) bowl. In a small saucepan, bring remaining ingredients to a boil. Stir to dissolve sugar and salt. Pour mixture over the onions; cool to room temperature. Pack onions with liquid into Mason jars, seal tightly and store in the refrigerator up to three weeks.
My favorite pizza: Blue cheese and caramelized onions with sage
This makes enough topping for a 16-inch pizza, or two 10-inch pizzas. Recipe from “From the Earth to the Table” by John Ash.
1 recipe pizza dough
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 1/2 pounds thinly sliced yellow onions
Kosher salt and fresh ground black pepper
3/4 pound Gorgonzola or other creamy blue cheese, crumbled
1/3 cup fresh sage leaves
Prepare pizza dough. Preheat oven to 475 degrees. Put olive oil and onions in a deep, heavy-bottomed pan; slowly sauté until onions are golden brown, stirring regularly to prevent burning, about 20 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Scatter onions evenly over top of prepared dough. Scatter blue cheese and sage leaves on top. Bake, preferably on top rack, about 20 minutes or until dough is puffed, golden and cooked through.
Southwest sizzling onions
Great with fajitas or a big fat steak. Recipe from “The Onion Book” by Jan Roberts-Dominguez; makes four to six servings.
3 medium yellow onions, peeled
2 tablespoons peanut oil
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro
Salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste
Splash of balsamic vinegar
Halve each onion lengthwise through the root end, then cut each half crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick slices. Separate slices into individual pieces. Heat a large, heavy skillet over high heat; add oil and swirl to coat bottom and sides of skillet. Before oil begins to smoke, add onions all at once. Let them sizzle about 30 seconds, then stir and continue stir-frying until onions are thoroughly browned and beginning to get limp, about five minutes. Ideally, they should retain some firmness. At the last moment, add cilantro, salt, pepper and balsamic vinegar, then stir and toss quickly for another 30 seconds. Remove from heat; transfer to a serving platter and serve hot.
Savory apple-onion chutney
This savory-sweet condiment is great with roast chicken, lamb, vegetable stews, lentils, rice, and sandwiches. Recipe from “Chutneys & Relishes” by Lorraine Bodger; makes about 3 1/2 cups.
2 large or 3 medium Granny Smith apples
1 large or 2 medium onions
2 tablespoons vegetable oil (safflower or canola)
1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger
1 garlic clove, minced
1/2 teaspoon mild curry powder
1/8 teaspoon cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
1 tablespoon yellow mustard seeds
1/2 cup dark raisins
1/2 cup packed light brown sugar
3/4 cup cider vinegar
1/4 cup water
1/4 teaspoon salt
Peel, quarter and core apples, removing all seeds and hard matter. Cut apples in small dice. Chop onion. In a medium saucepan, heat oil; sauté ginger and garlic over low heat about one minute. Add curry powder, spices and mustard seeds; continue sautéing another minute. Add onions, raisins, brown sugar, vinegar, water and salt; stir well. Bring mixture to a simmer, stirring to dissolve sugar, then lower heat slightly and continue simmering uncovered for 25 minutes. Stir in apples; simmer uncovered 20 minutes more, until mixture is thick and there is no liquid left. Cool chutney; serve at room temperature or cool, but not cold. If made ahead, refrigerate until a half hour before serving. Chutney should last a week in refrigerator.
