Vegan chocolate sauce? A mushroom aperitif? 12 finds from the Summer Fancy Food Show in New York

Can’t resist that jar of artisan chili crisp? Willing to fork over 10 bucks for a bottle of water “restructured” with quartz crystals? Maybe you’re determined to go plant-based or want to buy food with a mission. Either way, you’re in good company.

Specialty foods — a category comprised of unique or artisan foods and beverages made with high-quality ingredients from suppliers across the globe — have never been more appealing to American consumers.

According to the Specialty Food Association, which held its Summer Fancy Food Show in New York City during the last week of June, U.S. specialty food sales across retail, food service and e-commerce reached a whopping $206.8 billion in 2023. That’s up more than 6% from around $195 billion in 2022.

As evidenced by the many products on display at the show, we’re hungrier than ever, not just for innovative flavors that excite the palate — sometimes in unexpected ways (i.e. aperitifs infused with mushroom or coffee powered with protein) — but also for foods and beverages that are healthy, kind to the earth and sustainably produced.

More than 2,000 specialty food producers from 60-plus countries trotted out new and not-so-new products at the sprawling show, which took up both levels of the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center. After 40,000-plus steps up and down its aisles over nearly three days, during which I sampled half my body weight in imported Italian cheeses and freshly sliced prosciutto, here are some initial observations:

—Plant-based proteins and organic and gluten-free foods and snacks continue to grow in popularity. Products include everything from cauliflower chips to chef-crafted packaged vegan soups to savory vegan protein bars and sticks, plant-based cheese slices, oat-based granola butter and Lentiful’s high-protein, high-fiber “Instant Lentils.” (Just add water, stir and microwave.) Non-GMO is another buzz word.

—Prebiotic and probiotic sodas and drinks that are focused on supporting gut health are also on the rise. Examples include ReCoup’s gut healthy rehydration sparkling beverages and Reset Kombucha’s powdered beverage mixes. Protein-enhanced foods also dominated. Projos’ Instant Power Coffee (organic, of course) comes stacked with 12 grams of complete protein alongside 175 mg of caffeine and is infused with collagen, which may help reduce joint inflammation and prevent aches and pains. Wilde Chicken &Waffles protein chips are made with chicken breast, egg whites and bone broth.

—Americans still love to spice things up; hot sauces, hot honey and chili-based condiments are still on the upswing. Multicultural sauces that bring a piece of global culinary heritage to the table seem especially hot. Two outstanding examples include Chingonas’ oil-based Salsa Macha from Mexico and Djablo Filipino Hot Sauce, the first U.S.-produced, family-owned, small-batch Filipino hot sauce in this country.

—Dry January isn’t a one-off. Non-alcoholic cocktails continue to trend and unique and exotic beverages such as bubble tea and boba — Asian tea drinks served with tapioca pearls — are growing in popularity. At the show, they were offered both in cans and in “instant” tea kits.

—Sustainability continues to be a factor for many consumers, both in packaging and in portioning to prevent food waste.

—Nostalgia rules. Consumers want products that come from a place they know, with personal backstories — say, a salsa or dumplings with roots in a family recipe or a sauce from a famous restaurant.

Tastes to try

It was impossible for a reporter to see and taste everything at the 68th show, but here are the ones that caught my eye and/or dazzled my taste buds:

Flour &Olive Cake Mixes: Former attorney Estelle Sohne created her line of premium cake mixes with extra-virgin olive oil to celebrate cultural diversity. OIive oil, she notes, is a symbol of peace and sustainability. “I wanted to bring people together with cake as a vehicle for collaboration through recipes that celebrate cultural diversity and global connection.”

To that end, an interactive of more than 70 international recipes on the company website allows bakers to use the four mixes with other ingredients to create cakes from around the world, with a personalized, downloadable label. “My mission is to put us all on the same table,” she says, “with our differences and similarities.” The chocolate cake was especially delicious.

VICUS water: Did you know that modern methods for making water safe to drink breaks apart the natural arrangement of water molecules? Me neither. This product “restructures” natural mineral water from Canada to its original state using quartz crystals. The end result is water that supposedly tastes smoother and silkier — and costs $9 for a 750 ml bottle.

Aaji’s Lonsa: Salsa isn’t the only thing worth dipping. Each 8-ounce container of this small-batch, spicy-sweet-tart condiment made in Philadelphia contains 1 pound of fresh tomatoes cooked down with a distinct blend of coastal Indian spices. The recipes are based on co-founder Rajus Korde’s grandmother’s tomato lonsa recipe. (“Aaji” means “grandmother” in Marathi.) They can be spread on sandwiches, spooned on toast or add a wonderful umami flavor to eggs.

CauliPuffs: Just as with Lay’s potato chips, there’s no way you can eat just one of these gluten-free, GMO-free puffed snacks made from corn, rice and cauliflower. The fact they’re baked in the healthy fat of avocado oil means you’ll you feel less guilty when you polish off a bag on the couch.

Tamarind Heads Masala BBQ Sauce: This next-generation sauce was named the best barbecue sauce at the 2024 show for a reason — it’s pretty incredible. Created to celebrate the culinary versatility of tamarind, a pod-like legume that’s both sweet and tangy, it’s a refreshing take on the ubiquitous summer condiment that offers a hint of smokiness, a touch of sweetness and a punch of heat.

Ceybon Chill AF: This alcohol-free, mushroom-infused aperitif is meant to promote calmness and relaxation. It’s crisp and spicy and definitely interesting — think a fizzy “gin and tonic” that’s good for you. A bottle costs $40, but it’s multifunctional: You can drink it straight up, over ice, or use it as a mixer.

MMMJerky: Most beef jerky varieties are chewy. This teriyaki-flavored beef snack crafted with USDA prime-grade brisket boasts the unique crunchy texture of a potato chip. One bite, and you’ll be hooked. The crispy, savory fat of the beef dissolves on your tongue when you bite into it, making you instantly want more.

Oishii Omakase Stawberries: It’s hard to believe these delicate, super-sweet berries — which hail from the foothills of the Japanese Alps — are vertically farmed in New Jersey. At about $2 a piece, they’re definitely a splurge, more suited to topping a fancy dessert than a bowl of Cheerios. But the berry’s incredible aroma, sweet taste and creamy texture make it worth it.

Genio Della Pizza: It’s pretty tough to find a frozen pizza that doesn’t taste like cheese-and-sauce-topped cardboard. These Neapolitan pies, which are hand-stretched and baked in a wood-fired oven in Italy, are the exception. The slow-rise dough is soft in the center and pillowy on the edges, and the Italian tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella are top-notch and full of flavor.

Sunday Night Vegan Chocolate Sauce: Want to give in to hankering for chocolate with zero guilt? This silky, small-batch vegan chocolate sauce bills itself as “the ultimate, plant-based indulgence.” Crafted with Callebaut unsweetened chocolate and cocoa, coconut oil and cream and vegan-certified cane sugar, the boast is warranted. It tastes like something my mother made during the holidays to drizzle on ice cream. No wonder it walked away with an SFA award for best dessert topping.

Natural Blonde Bloody Mary Mix: The label hints at the bright ingredient that makes this Bloody Mary mix such a winner. Born in South Carolina’s Lowcountry, it’s made from fresh, sun-ripened golden tomatoes, which are milder and lower in acidity than red tomatoes. The mix also doesn’t include any paste or artificial ingredients and is low in sodium. It comes in golden and spicy flavors.