When the first of the seasonal storms come calling, I start salivating for ragout. This rich, highly seasoned stew can be made with meat, poultry or fish; with or without vegetables. Sometimes the ragout is a side dish; usually it’s
When the first of the seasonal storms come calling, I start salivating for ragout. This rich, highly seasoned stew can be made with meat, poultry or fish; with or without vegetables. Sometimes the ragout is a side dish; usually it’s a main dish because of its hearty nature. The beauty of a ragout is that it can be made in advance, tasting even better the next day. It is also a great way to use slightly freezer-burned foods, since the richness will mask any dryness. The famous Italian red meat sauce called ragu has a base of ground beef and diced vegetables. In any classic ragout, the meat is cut into very small pieces so that it can become part of the sauce, adding to the thickness and rich flavor. Here are three favorites to try.
Pork ragout
A classic Portuguese dish with aromatic herbs and spices; marinate the meat the night before cooking. Makes 4 or 5 servings.
3 tablespoons cumin seeds
2 tablespoons minced garlic
1 teaspoon coarse sea salt
1 teaspoon fresh ground white pepper
1 tablespoon paprika
2 pounds boneless pork shoulder, cut into 1-inch cubes
4 red bell peppers, seeded and cut into 1/2-inch strips
1 cup dry white wine
1/8 cup olive oil
1/8 cup butter
1/2 cup chicken stock
Fresh lemon slices, pitted, cut paper thin
Chopped fresh cilantro
In a small, dry frying pan, toast cumin seeds over medium heat, swirling until fragrant, 2-3 minutes. Transfer seeds to a mortar; pound until a fine powder (or use a grinder). Add the garlic, salt, pepper and paprika; mash to a paste. Put pork in a glass or plastic bowl, rub paste evenly over the meat, cover bowl and marinate overnight in refrigerator.
Bring meat to room temperature. In a large pan, warm oil and butter over high heat. Add pork in batches, browning quickly on all sides. Using a slotted spoon, transfer pork to a large, heavy pot. Add pepper strips to fat in pan; saute until soft. Transfer pepper to pot with meat. Pour wine into the saute pan and deglaze; transfer pan juices to the pot. Add stock and lemon slices to the pot; bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer until meat is very tender, about a half hour. Stir in cilantro; taste and adjust seasonings. Serve hot.
Mixed vegetable ragout
Though meat is in most ragouts, vegetarian versions have cropped up more often in recent years. This one can be the main course or a great side dish. Chef and cooking teacher Madeleine Kamman likes to serve this with rice pilaf or risotto. You can use vegetables that are less than top quality here; they will still taste great. Makes 6 servings.
2 tablespoons unsaturated oil
1 cup mushrooms, cleaned and destemmed
1 head Boston lettuce, finely chopped
2 leeks, white and light green parts only, washed and thinly sliced
Salt and fresh ground pepper
2 green zucchini, sliced 1/3 inch thick
1 cup baby carrots, peeled
1 cup small white turnips, an inch in diameter at the most
1/2 cup fresh lima beans, unpeeled, or fava beans, peeled
1/2 cup fresh large peas
1 cup green beans cut into 1-inch pieces
1 to 1 1/2 cups chicken or vegetable broth
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 tablespoon unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon each: chopped chervil, chives, parsley and cilantro leaves
Heat oil in a two-handled pot over medium heat. Add mushrooms, lettuce and leeks; toss in the oil and season with salt and pepper. Cover a few minutes, then add remaining vegetables; toss well and cook, covered, until tender, 25 to 30 minutes. Add stock to the pot; bring to a boil. Mash butter with flour and stir quickly through vegetables to bind them lightly together. Use as a topping for rice of your choice, then sprinkle with the fresh chopped herbs.
Baked pasta with wild mushroom ragout
From Bon Appetit magazine comes this easy and delicious entree for fall. Makes 4 to 6 servings.
1/2 ounce dried porcini mushrooms
2 cups hot water
6 tablespoons butter
1 3/4 cups finely chopped onions
8 ounces fresh button mushrooms, chopped
6 ounces fresh shiitake mushrooms, sliced
2 1/2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 1/2 cups whole milk
3/4 cup fresh grated Parmesan cheese
1/2 cup finely chopped fresh chives
12 ounces penne pasta
1/2 cup fresh bread crumbs made from French bread
Place porcini in a small bowl. Add the hot water; let soften 20 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove porcini and chop coarsely. Reserve the liquid. In a large heavy skillet, melt 3 tablespoons of the butter over medium-high heat. Add onions; saute until soft, about 5 minutes. Add button and shiitake mushrooms; saute 5 minutes. Mix in porcini and reserved soaking liquid, leaving any sediment behind in bowl. Simmer over medium-high heat 10 minutes. Melt remaining 3 tablespoons butter in a heavy medium saucepan over medium heat. Add flour; stir constantly until golden, about 2 minutes. Gradually whisk in milk. Stir until sauce thickens and boils, about 3 minutes. Stir into mushroom mixture. Simmer 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in 1/2 cup of the Parmesan and chives. Season sauce to taste with salt and pepper; set aside. (Sauce can be made a day ahead, covered and refrigerated, then warmed over medium low heat before continuing.) Preheat oven to 425 F. Butter a 13-by-9-by-2-inch glass baking dish. Cook pasta in pot of water until tender but still firm; drain. Return pasta to pot. Add mushroom sauce, toss to coat well, and transfer to baking dish. Sprinkle bread crumbs and remaining 1/4 cup Parmesan on top. Bake until heated through, about 25 minutes. Serve hot.
