The original ‘Great British Baking Show’ winner is betting on small batches
From a recipe for Emergency Chocolate Chip cookies to an ode to Girl Scout Cookies, Edd Kimber understands what we want to bake right now.
Kimber rose to prominence in 2010 as the first winner of the “Great British Baking Show,” a program embraced for its low-key comfort viewing and the everyday people competing — pleasantly. He got his start like many, a person with a day job who took solace in making sweets in his off hours. Now the author of several cookbooks, Kimber may be a professional, but he hasn’t sacrificed his roots as someone who simply loves firing up the oven and pulling out a pan.
From his passionate following on social media as The Boy Who Bakes to his ability to place himself directly in the path of the next big baking trend, Kimber fosters community through his recipes and personable writing.
With directions like how to “scoot” a cookie to get desirable round shapes and descriptions of “soft and sumptuous,” Kimber is clearly talking directly to his audience, even though he’s only met most of them through a screen. Writing for a global audience using wildly different base ingredients, Kimber continues to seek out knowledge and meet fellow bakers exactly where they are.
Ahead of his international book tour, we talked to Kimber about why as a Brit he’s nostalgic for Girl Scout Cookies. He’s promote his latest release, “Small Batch Cookies: Deliciously Easy Bakes for One to Six People.” This interview has been edited for length and clarity.
You’ve been right at the place where all of us want to be baking, from comfort baking on television to emergency cookies to cooking for ourselves during the pandemic. Why is this the time for small-batch cookies?
I was trying to think of what I wanted to write about and what would be useful.
During the pandemic, I’d been baking just for me and my partner. Like everybody else, we were bored out of our minds. I was baking more than I had done in a long time and I was making things that were much smaller batches, because it just made sense.
It has always seemed kind of wild to me that cookie recipes almost automatically serve a minimum of 12, but 12 is on the lower end of most recipes. Part of the reason I started baking was because I loved being that person who fed others, but also brought a bit of joy to people. It’s also a creative outlet just for myself.
And I kept thinking, why can’t we do cookies in a way that actually is personal? Also, I just really like cookies.
How do you balance that, speaking to such different audiences? I mean, our ovens are different in America and the U.K. The way we approach ingredients is different.
It’s kind of by necessity. I read up on available ingredients and how things differ. Butter has very slightly different fat content, but the biggest difference is the flour. It’s partly by law, because it’s illegal to bleach flour in the U.K. So, it’s giving people the right advice to find the most appropriate alternative. I like digging into things and trying to find an answer.
It used to be that you write a recipe and it would go into the ether. You would have no connection with the person making it because the internet was different, or media was different. Now, you’re so connected to people. I feel such a responsibility to make sure that people have a good outcome with a recipe. I want to hear that feedback and answer questions.
It was fun to read about your imagined nostalgia for American cookies, like Girl Scout Cookies.
I think I was in San Francisco 10 years ago and I went up to this Girl Scout troop selling cookies and I probably scared them. I was so excited. I got four boxes of Thin Mints and what are the other ones with the caramel and coconut?
Four boxes is the correct serving size for Thin Mints. Maybe Caramel deLites?
I was blown away. I love baking traditions in other countries and trying to understand them. But there is something about American baking traditions that weirdly shouldn’t be nostalgic for me, but it’s somehow just in my head. I think maybe it was movies and sitcoms from the U.S. that we would watch.
Reverse Chocolate Chip Cookies
Makes 6 cookies.
From “Small Batch Cookies: Deliciously Easy Bakes for One to Six People” by Edd Kimber, who writes: “Take a classic chocolate chip cookie and turn it inside out. The cookie dough is dark and chocolaty, filled with chunks of white chocolate which magically start to caramelize as the cookies bake, adding a real depth of flavor. Inspired by a cookie served at Detroit’s Sister Pie, these are a fun take on the classic American chocolate chip cookie.” (Kyle Books 2024)
1/3 c. (45 g) all-purpose flour
3 tbsp. (15 g) cocoa powder
¼ tsp. baking powder
¼ tsp. baking soda
¼ tsp. fine sea salt
3 ½ tbsp. (50 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 ½ tbsp. (30 g) superfine or granulated sugar
2 tbsp. (30 g) light brown sugar
2 large egg yolks
2 oz. (55 g) dark chocolate (65% to 75% cocoa solids), melted and cooled
1 ¾ oz. (50 g) white chocolate, roughly chopped
Flaked sea salt, for sprinkling
Directions
To make the cookie dough, mix together the flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, baking soda and salt. In a separate bowl, using an electric hand mixer, beat together the butter and sugars until light and fluffy. Add the egg yolks, one at a time, beating until fully combined before adding the second. Scrape in the melted dark chocolate and mix until evenly combined. Add the flour mixture and mix to form a soft dough. Add the white chocolate and mix briefly to distribute evenly.
The finished cookie dough will be a little soft, so to make it easier to handle, scrape it into a piece of plastic wrap or a reusable alternative, wrap it up and roll into a log roughly 4 ½ inches long. Refrigerate for about 1 hour, or until firm.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees and line a large baking sheet with parchment.
Remove the cookie dough from the refrigerator and, using a sharp knife, cut the log into 6 equal slices. Place the cookies onto the prepared baking sheet, setting them at least 2 inches apart to allow for spreading. Sprinkle with a little flaked sea salt.
Bake for 15 to 16 minutes. The cookies will be soft when they come out of the oven but will firm up as they cool. Leave to cool for 5 minutes before transferring to wire rack to cool completely.
If stored in a sealed container, these cookies will keep for 3 to 4 days.