Diversity and inclusion celebrated in Milan with refrain: Make more space for color, curves
MILAN — More curvy models than ever showed up on Milan runways this season, due mostly to a single show by Brazilian designer Karoline Vitto, while designers of color showcased their work at collateral events meant to promote their visibility in the backrooms of Italian fashion.
Wherever diversity and inclusion were being celebrated during Milan Fashion Week, which ended Sunday, there was one underlying refrain: Make more space.
Curvy models get outing at Karoline Vitto
“We made history! It was incredible,” world-renown curvy model Ashley Graham gushed as she embraced London-based Vitto after Sunday’s show.
Plus-size models like Graham, Precious Lee and Paloma Elsesser are often the only curvy models on fashion runways for any given show, but for Vitto’s preview Graham led an entire cast of models ranging in size from UK 10 to UK 24 (US 6 to US 20).
Vogue Business reported in March that just .06% of 9,137 Fall-Winter 2023-24 looks across 219 shows in four fashion cities featured models over size US 14.
By comparison, some Milan brands typically size up to 48 Italian (US size 12), while some, notably Dolce &Gabbana which sponsored Vitto, has extended some looks up to an Italian size 52 (US 16).
Graham wore an edgy black ripped corset and long sheer skirt, while other models wore form-hugging jersey dresses fitted with S-shaped metallic fixtures that sculpted their curves.
Showcasing small POC brands
After working in fashion for decades, Deborah Latouche launched her own brand after converting to Islam and realizing how hard it was to find clothes that were “luxury, high-end and modest.”
Latouche brand, Sabirah, was highlighted along with US brand BruceGlen at the Milan Fashion Hub for new and emerging designers, sponsored by Blanc Magazine’s Teneshia Carr and the Italian National Fashion Chamber.
The Hub offered space to meet buyers and other people interested in new brands.
“Something like this is really important because small brands such as myself can get really overlooked,” said Latouche, who has shown her brand in London, where she is based. “We put a lot of work in but we don’t necessarily get a lot of recognition.”
