MILAN — Milan Fashion Week opened and closed under a beating early summer sun.
Zegna wrapped up four days of shows Monday with an outdoor event set among bales of raw linen behind Milan’s City Hall, allowing city workers a view out of their windows. For the sweltering fashion crowd, Zegna fashion offered iced coffee and linen baseball caps to keep things cool.
With temperatures rising, Milan designers focused on fluidity in dressing, allowing the body to move without constrictions. With one notable dissenter, runways offered thigh-revealing Bermuda shorts as an alternative to trousers even for city dressing. Gone are the long shorts of streetwear brands.
Some highlights from the final day of Milan Fashion Week of mostly menswear previews for next spring and summer:
Armani presents signature elegance
Giorgio Armani’s signature collection was meant to show the fashion public how the urban man ought to dress, even in the heat of summer.
“I didn’t do any Bermudas,” Armani noted after the runway show in his central Milan villa. “Bermudas imply being at the beach, and going around on vacation.”
Still, he conceded that a front-row influencer wearing Bermuda shorts at his morning show had done so elegantly.
Jackets finished most looks, soft and hanging loosely, which Armani said was a nod to Asian elegance. Prints on silken shirts, jackets and trousers recalled weaving, echoed in the espadrilles and fishermen sandals. Straw brimmed Panama hats, meant for holidays, were more often carried than worn. The color palate progressed from washed out cream, tan and sage to black and navy.
Armani defused the formality of the tailoring with linen, and by keeping jackets and blazers mostly unbuttoned, so a double-breasted jacket “is no longer a double-breasted jacket,” Armani said.
The collection closed with four boardroom looks: formal dark suits, white shirts and ties.
Dhruv Kapoor’s awakening
Indian designer Dhruv Kapoor’s collections are not just about style, they are about elevating the wearer’s emotions, helping them to dream bigger. It’s a lofty ambition, fitting with Kapoor’s notion that apparel, with a tweak here and there, can tap the universe’s energy.
To point, Kapoor showed spring-summer 2024 runway collection in a blue room, meant to have a calming effect.
A red jacket fires up emotions. Prints are inspired by crop circles, “which I read recently just by looking at that pattern will imprint certain things in your head, which you are going to use when the time is right for you,” Kapoor said backstage.
The co-ed collection was modular with a loose, easy-to-wear silhouette. For him, a pleated kilt is worn over trousers, worn with a beaded star-burst studded jacket. The same star-burst appeared on a straight skirt for her, worn with a sci-fi print sweatshirt. Three bowling-style shirts are inspired by the covers of 1970s science fiction book
“We want you to feel good when you put it on,” he said. “They won’t even know what has happened. But we have done a little tweak from the back.”