Courage. It makes the muskrat guard its musk. It puts the “ape” in apricot. Now, studies suggest that it also puts the “rat” in ratatouille.
Tomatoes explode on the vine and purple eggplants drop like drowsy grackles from the tall, tall eggplant trees. Today, though, we are fearless. Today, we make ratatouille.
The first thing to remember is that there are exactly 9 bajillion and 12 recipes for ratatouille. This means there’s no one “right” way of doing it. Sure, there are plenty of wrong ways — scorched onions, not enough seasoning, too much dog — but it’s such a common preparation that pretty much every cook has his or her own way of doing it.
Now, in case the only ratatouille you’ve ever encountered is that capital “R” Pixar jobber — the one with the actual rat — it’s a vegetable dish, a stew of sorts, a “melange,” if you will, a medley, a sun-ripened party in your piehole, and it’s associated with Provence, a region in the southwest of France known for delicious vegetables, Julia Child and bats. Lots and lots of bats.
Typically — but not exclusively — ratatouille consists of roughly equal amounts of eggplant, zucchini and bell pepper, flavored with onion, garlic and herbs. Tomato is added in direct proportion to the cook’s tastes. What sets apart the various ratatouille-ish treatments are the choice of vegetables, the size and shape of the cuts, and the method of cooking. Let’s take a gander.
The vegetables: Along with the summer lovelies mentioned above, some people get all crazy and put mushrooms in their ratatouille. Others might eschew the eggplant or squash altogether. Listen, you do what you like. That’s why your ancestors came here from Canadia in the first place. Stupid Canadia.
Feel free to use whatever variety of these vegetables you like. Globe eggplant or Japanese, Spanish onion or Vidalia. And any variety of summer squash will do. As for the tomato, while it’s true enough that, this time of year, fresh tomatoes are as common as Cincinnati street pigs, I’m only a tiny bit ashamed to admit that I’m just as happy with canned.
Ratatouille
Prep: 30 minutes
Cook: 40 minutes
Makes: about 8 servings
3 tablespoons olive oil, plus more as needed
1 medium eggplant, peeled, cut into medium (1/2-inch) or large (3/4-inch) dice
Salt as needed
1/2 large onion, small dice
1 to 2 green or yellow bell peppers, cut into medium (1/2-inch) or large (3/4-inch) dice
2 medium summer squash (zucchini, golden squash, etc.), cut into medium (1/2-inch) or large (3/4-inch) dice
2 to 4 cloves garlic, minced
1 can (28 ounces) crushed tomatoes or 4 to 6 fresh tomatoes, cut into medium dice (1/2-inch)
1 to 2 tablespoons fresh herbs (thyme, oregano, basil, herbs de Provence, etc., or a mix), or 1 1/2 teaspoons dried
Freshly ground black pepper
1. Heat a heavy bottomed skillet or stock pot over medium high heat. When hot, add 3 tablespoons oil and let heat, about 15 seconds. Add eggplant, season with salt, and saute until tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove to a bowl.
2. Add more oil if needed, then add onion and peppers; saute until onions are just starting to color and peppers are tender, about 2 minutes.
3. Add squash; saute until tender, about 3 minutes.
4. Add garlic; saute until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
5. Stir in half the tomato and reserved, cooked eggplant along with herbs, salt to taste and several grinds of pepper. Add remaining tomato if you want and when liquid starts to bubble, reduce heat and simmer to blend flavors, about 10 minutes.
6. Check seasoning, then serve immediately or hold, refrigerated, up to 5 days. May be served hot or at room temperature.
