Embracing eggplant:
A neighbor insisted that I take some eggplant from his prolific garden. He seemed as desperate to find homes for them as for a litter of kittens. So, I took two big round ones and one Japanese eggplant. But I confess, I do not eat them very often. It’s a texture thing.
The other reason I don’t embrace eggplant is it’s part of the nightshade family, related to potatoes and tomatoes, which tend to aggravate my arthritic bones. And like the tomato, it’s actually a fruit, not a vegetable. Eggplant can range in color from dark purple to white; from short and bulbous to long and thin. Whether you bake, broil, grill, or fry them, they are a good source of folic acid, fiber and potassium. So I decided to give them another try.
A classic ratatouille is a good place to start, because the eggplant can be combined with that other annoyingly abundant crop, zucchini. Plus, you don’t have to turn on the oven to make it. Most eggplants can be bitter, so many recipes advise to “salt” it before cooking. The Japanese ones don’t need salting, but the big ones do. Cut off both ends; slice into rounds about a half inch thick or according to your recipe. Sprinkle coarse salt on each piece and place them in a colander lined with paper towels; let stand for about 30 minutes. Rinse well with cold water and pat dry.
Ratatouille rondelli
This version from “Cooking for Heart &Soul” a fundraiser cookbook for the San Francisco Food Bank, is a bit crunchy instead of mushy. Makes 6 servings.
1 medium-size eggplant
2 zucchini
1 red bell pepper, stems, seeds and ribs removed
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 large yellow onion, peeled and diced
Salt and fresh ground black pepper
10 medium-size Roma tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced
1 teaspoon chopped garlic
1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
Quarter the eggplant and scoop out the flesh, leaving only 1/4-inch of flesh close to the skin. Dice eggplant into 1/4-inch cubes. Repeat process with zucchini. Cut bell pepper into 1/4-inch cubes. Heat olive oil in a large, non-reactive, ovenproof skillet. Saute onion and bell pepper over medium heat for 2-3 minutes. Season with salt; transfer to a colander set over a bowl. Return drained oil from bowl to skillet. Add eggplant and zucchini; saute over medium heat or 2-3 minutes. Season with salt and transfer to colander set over bowl. Return drained oil from bowl back to skillet. Add tomatoes, garlic and thyme; saute over medium heat for 3-4 minutes. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Combine all ingredients in the skillet; season to taste. Cover skillet with a lid or aluminum foil; place in oven for 5-10 minutes just before serving.
Eggplant mashed potatoes
I like this because it turns the cooked eggplant’s mushy texture into an asset. It’s great with ahi, pork, lamb, chicken and other entrees that have Asian spices. Recipe from “The Union Square Café Cookbook” by Danny Meyer &Michael Romano; makes 4 servings.
2 medium eggplants (about 2 lbs. total), peeled
1/4 cup olive oil
1 teaspoon salt
Fresh ground black pepper
1 tablespoon sesame oil
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon peeled, grated ginger
1 tablespoon tahini
2 tablespoons soy sauce (preferably tamari)
2 cups prepared mashed potatoes
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Cut eggplants in half lengthwise; slice each half into thirds lengthwise. Keep slices together and slice again across the halves at half-inch intervals. With a wide spatula, transfer cut eggplant to a lightly oiled roasting pan. Drizzle with 3 tablespoons of the oil; season with salt and pepper. Cover with foil and roast in oven for 45 minutes. Puree in food processor until smooth.
In a medium saute pan over low flame, heat remaining olive oil and sesame oil. Add garlic and ginger; cook for 3-4 minutes. Add eggplant puree, tahini, and soy sauce; cook 10 minutes more. Stir in warmed mashed potatoes; heat thoroughly. Add pepper to taste and serve hot.
Gratin of eggplant, zucchini, tomatoes and chick peas
This reminds me of ratatouille, but a bit classier presentation. Recipe adapted from Joanne Weir’s wonderful Mediterranean cookbook, “From Tapas to Meze” and makes 6-8 servings.
1 eggplant, about 1 1/2 lbs., unpeeled
Salt and black pepper
5 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon olive oil
1 medium onion, minced
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
6 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped (or) 1 28-oz. can Italian plum tomatoes, drained and chopped
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
12-15 torn fresh basil leaves
1 can chick peas, rinsed and drained
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
Cut eggplant into 1-inch cubes; set cubes in a colander and lightly salt them. Drain 30 minutes; rinse and pat very dry with paper towels. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, place 3 tablespoons of the olive oil; saute eggplant until lightly browned on all sides, about 15 minutes. Remove from pan and place in a bowl. Add 2 tablespoons oil to pan; saute onion until soft, about 10 minutes. Add garlic, parsley and thyme; saute 2 minutes. Add tomatoes and cook, uncovered, until liquid has disappeared, 15-20 minutes. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Combine eggplant, tomato sauce, allspice, red pepper, basil and chickpeas. Season with salt and pepper. Oil a large shallow gratin dish with remaining 1 teaspoon oil. Place mixture in dish; sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and bake until hot and golden, 40-45 minutes.
Eggplant caviar
This is an appetizer that pairs very well with sparkling wine and has been one of my go-to pupus for many years. Makes about 2 cups.
1 whole eggplant
1 1/4 cups walnuts
1/4 cup lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2-3 chili peppers, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup cilantro leaves
1/3 cup olive oil
Bake eggplant in preheated 350 degree oven for 30 minutes; cool. Toast walnuts at 325 degrees for 15 minutes; cool. Peel and cut eggplant into large chunks. Place in food processor with lemon juice, salt, cumin, cayenne, chili peppers and garlic. Pulse twice. Add cilantro leaves; pulse to chop. Add toasted walnuts and oil; pulse until coarsely chopped. Transfer mixture to a serving bowl and serve with tortilla chips, celery sticks, daikon slices, or other crackers.