Most of us have a little jar of ground cinnamon in the kitchen pantry. We don’t pay much attention to it unless a recipe calls for some; maybe we sprinkle a little on toast or in a smoothie. If it’s from a national brand, or one of those big bulky discount sizes, you should consider replacing it. Why? Because here on the Big Island, along with fabulous island-grown coffees, cacao and honey, we have the best cinnamon you can get, and you may be missing out on the real deal. If you support local agriculture, cinnamon pairs quite nicely with all these local products.
Most cinnamon sold in stores is “cassia,” a dark and sharply flavored (and inexpensive) version that disappears shortly after it hits your tongue. But true cinnamon, or Cinnamomum verum, has a warmer, sweeter and more distinctive flavor. This true cinnamon is grown organically on the Big Island at Adaptations Farm in Honaunau, where it was planted in the early 1980s from keiki trees growing wild in North Kohala. It is processed and sold under the Oceanfire label. According to Maureen Datta, who along with her husband, Tane, also runs Adaptations’ well-grounded CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) program, “With true cinnamon you experience more depth and fullness, and it stays on your palate longer.”
Cinnamon can also offer substantial health benefits. According to research, 1 teaspoon of cinnamon contains about 28 milligrams of calcium, 1 milligram of iron, fiber, and vitamins C, K and manganese. Some studies suggest it offers antibacterial and anti-inflammatory benefits to help with joint and muscle pain, digestive ills, circulation, even blood sugar regulation and metabolism. Cinnamon has been used in Chinese medicine dating back to 2800 B.C. to treat sore throats, coughs and other respiratory infections. The practice of aromatherapy uses cinnamon oil to stimulate the senses, restore vigor and treat anxiety. Cinnamon’s scent has also been shown to boost cognitive function and memory.
So how does cinnamon go from tree to jar? The bark is harvested from branches that are four to 10 years old. First, these branches are cut into logs about 3 feet long, and the outer bark is scraped off. Then the inner bark is gently pounded off by hand, using a hammer and knife. These strips are dried in dehydrators at low temperatures over several days, then ground into a fine powder to release the flavor. It will be five or six years before bark can be reharvested from the same tree, but harvest is possible year-round. Adaptations Farms currently processes from 500 to 600 pounds of sustainably grown, organic cinnamon bark per year, with plans to increase harvest up to 1,000 pounds in the next few years.
And guess what happens to the 3-foot cut logs after the bark is scraped off? New, value-added products include cinnamon planks for grilling on charcoal or gas grills or in ovens, and custom cheeseboards. Oceanfire cinnamon is currently available at Island Naturals, Kailua Candy Co. and The Keauhou Store. In the spirit of evoking happy, comforting memories of warm cinnamon-scented treats that pair well with a cup of Kona or Ka‘u coffee, I offer up some of my favorite recipes.
Cinnamon biscuit crisps
These wafer-thin biscuits, topped with cinnamon sugar, are perfect for coffee, and also delicious with fruit compote, hot chocolate or a glass of lemonade. Recipe from “Biscuits and Scones” by Elizabeth Alston. Makes about 40 crisps.
1 1/2 cups whole wheat flour
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
8 tablespoons (1 stick) cold unsalted butter, cut up
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
2/3 cup milk
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a large bowl, combine flours, baking powder, salt and 1/2 teaspoon of the cinnamon; stir to mix well. Add butter; cut in with a fork until mixture forms a dough. Gather into a ball; place on a lightly floured board and knead 10 to 12 times. Cut dough in half. Mix remaining 1/4 cup sugar with remaining 1 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon in a small bowl; set aside.
On a lightly floured board, roll out half the dough into a 7-by-6-inch rectangle. Lift dough and sprinkle board with half the cinnamon sugar. Roll dough on the sugar, without turning, into a rectangle about 14-by-11 inches; trim edges. Cut dough into four lengthwise strips, then five crosswise strips to make 20 rectangles. Put rectangles, sugar side up, an inch apart on ungreased cookie sheets. Bake seven to 10 minutes or until medium brown on top; watch that undersides do not scorch. Cool, uncovered, on a wire rack. Roll, cut and bake remaining dough. Store cooled crisps airtight at room temperature.
Cinnamon-brown sugar drop biscuits
If you prefer a sink-your-teeth-into-it, substantial breakfast roll, these provide not only irresistible aromas, but a satisfying morning treat. You can make the dough in advance, pre-mix the topping, and refrigerate these components separately overnight, then assemble and bake in the morning. Recipe from “Breakfast in Bed” by Jesse Ziff Cool. Makes about 20 biscuits.
Dough:
1 1/2 cups unbleached white flour
1/2 cup whole wheat flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, chilled and cut into pieces
Approximately 3/4 cup milk or apple juice
In a medium bowl, stir together flours, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Using a pastry blender or your hands, cut in the butter until mixture is grainy. Stir in enough milk to form a dough, just moist enough to plop from a spoon. Set aside.
Filling:
1 tablespoon cinnamon
2 tablespoons unbleached white flour
2 tablespoons butter, softened
1/2 cup packed brown sugar
In a small bowl, combine all ingredients until well mixed.
To assemble:
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Lightly oil one large or two regular-sized baking sheets. Drop a generous teaspoon of dough onto prepared baking sheet. Crumble about 1/2 teaspoon of topping into the center. Top with another teaspoon of dough, followed by a final 1/2 teaspoon of topping. Continue dropping biscuits and topping, about 2 inches apart. Bake until flaky and lightly browned, about 10 minutes.
Buttermilk-cinnamon coffee cake
This coffee cake was a favorite with Cafe Beaujolais regulars in Mendocino, Calif. Try eating just one piece. Recipe from “Morning Food” by Margaret Fox.
2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ginger
1 cup brown sugar
3/4 cup white sugar
3/4 cup corn oil
1 cup chopped walnuts or pecans
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 egg, beaten
1 cup buttermilk
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a large bowl, mix flour, salt, 1 teaspoon of the cinnamon, ginger, both sugars and corn oil. Remove 3/4 cup of mixture to a small bowl, and to it add the nuts and remaining teaspoon of cinnamon. Mix well and set aside to use as a topping. To remaining batter, add baking soda, baking powder, egg and buttermilk; mix well. Small lumps in batter are okay. Pour batter into a well-greased 9-by-13-by-2-inch baking pan. Sprinkle with topping mixture evenly over surface. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes; serve warm or at room temperature.
