The politics of pears

Subscribe Now Choose a package that suits your preferences.
Start Free Account Get access to 7 premium stories every month for FREE!
Already a Subscriber? Current print subscriber? Activate your complimentary Digital account.

Pears are politicians of the food world: they aim to please everyone. They can be eaten hard and crisp, with a slightly tart flavor, or allowed to age into a soft, creamy texture with super-sweetness. Pears can be found in shades of orange-yellow-brown-green-red blushed skins, to match any décor. I cast my vote for their versatility and promise of good things to come.

Pears are politicians of the food world: they aim to please everyone. They can be eaten hard and crisp, with a slightly tart flavor, or allowed to age into a soft, creamy texture with super-sweetness. Pears can be found in shades of orange-yellow-brown-green-red blushed skins, to match any décor. I cast my vote for their versatility and promise of good things to come.

Warm pear salad

There’s nothing better than a fresh pear with a wedge of good blue cheese, except maybe warm pears in this delicious salad with aged Stilton. Recipe from “What To Have For Dinner: The Best of Martha Stewart Living;” makes 4 servings.

2 Bartlett pears, ripe but firm

5 teaspoons olive oil

1 teaspoon honey

1/2 teaspoon dry mustard

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon fresh ground pepper

1/2 medium red onion, thinly sliced into rings

2 heads endive, sliced crosswise into 1-inch pieces

1 bunch watercress, tough stems removed

1/4 pound Stilton or Roquefort cheese, crumbled

1 1/2 teaspoons red wine vinegar

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

Cut pears lengthwise into quarters. Peel, core and cut each quarter into approximately 1-inch chunks; place in a small bowl. Add 2 teaspoons of the oil, the honey, dry mustard, salt and pepper; toss well. Place a skillet over medium-high heat. Add pears and onions; cook, shaking skillet a few times, until pears are golden brown and onions are slightly wilted, about 3 minutes. Transfer pears, onions and any juices to a bowl. Add endive, watercress, cheese, remaining olive oil, vinegar and Worcestershire; toss together gently. Season to taste with salt and pepper; serve warm.

Caramelized pears with toasted almonds

This is simple and elegant, yet low in fat. Recipe from Bon Appetit magazine; makes 4 servings.

Nonstick vegetable oil spray

3 pears, (Bartlett, d’Anjou or Comice) unpeeled

1 tablespoon firmly packed golden brown sugar

1 tablespoon sliced almonds

1/2 cup nonfat vanilla yogurt

Preheat broiler. Spray a shallow broiler-proof dish with nonstick spray. Core and thinly slice the pears; arrange slices in slightly overlapping rows in prepared dish. Sprinkle pears with brown sugar. Broil about 6 inches from heat until sugar melts and pears begin to brown, watching closely to prevent burning, about 4 minutes. Sprinkle with almonds; broil just until almonds are golden, about 30 seconds. Serve warm, topped with yogurt.

Honey pear jam

Start the day with these homemade preserves on toast. Recipe from “Pears: A Country Garden Cookbook” by Janet Hazan; makes 1 cup of preserves.

2 large firm-ripe pears (Bartlett or Comice), halved, cored and cut into 1/4-inch cubes

1/2 cup water

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

1/4 cup pear eau-de-vie (a liqueur)

1/4 teaspoon each: ground cinnamon, ground cloves, ground nutmeg

1/2 cup honey

Pinch of salt

In a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine pear cubes, water, lemon juice, eau-de-vie and spices; mix well. Bring to a boil over high heat. Cook 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Reduce heat to medium; simmer 25 minutes, stirring occasionally, until almost all liquid has evaporated and pears are very tender. Add honey and salt; mix well. Cook 15 to 20 minutes, stirring frequently, until mixture is thick and aromatic, and the pears have broken down. Remove from heat; let cool to room temperature. Transfer to a nonreactive container with a tight-fitting lid. Store jam in refrigerator up to 2 months.

Poached pears with orange sauce

Not like the usual spiced pears, these are a zesty, citrusy light dessert that can be served warm, chilled, or at room temperature. Recipe courtesy of “From Our House To Yours: Comfort Food To Give and Share,” by the editors of Chronicle Books; makes 6 servings.

1/2 cup apple cider

1/2 cup water

1 1/2 cups sugar

Zest of 2 oranges, finely minced or grated

Zest of 1 lemon, finely minced or grated

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

6 firm pears, such as Comice or Bosc

1 cup fresh orange juice

3/4 cup mascarpone cheese

6 tablespoons minced crystallized ginger

In a saucepan large enough to hold the upright pears without crowding, combine the apple cider, water, sugar, orange and lemon zests, and lemon juice. Place over medium heat and cook, stirring often, until sugar dissolves and mixture comes to a boil. Remove from heat; set aside.

Peel pears, leaving stems attached. Cut a thin sliver off bottoms if needed so pears will stand upright. Place pears upright in pan. Using a spoon, drizzle each pear with the syrup. Cover; bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Cook, basting often with syrup, until pears can be easily pierced with the tip of a sharp knife, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from heat. With a slotted spoon, transfer pears to a shallow serving platter. Pour poaching syrup through a fine sieve placed over a pitcher. Reserve zest as a garnish. Measure 1 cup syrup; pour into a small saucepan. Add orange juice to saucepan; stir to mix. Place over medium heat, bring to a gentle boil, and boil until reduced to a thick syrup, about 20 minutes. Remove from heat; let cool until just warm. Drizzle a tablespoon of warm sauce over each pear.

To serve, arrange pears on individual plates. Place a spoonful of mascarpone next to each pear; spoon remaining sauce over. Garnish each pear with reserved zest. Garnish each spoonful of mascarpone with a tablespoon of minced ginger and a few flecks of remaining zest.