Perfection within reach

BY BONNIE S. BENWICK | THE WASHINGTON POST

Intrigued or turned off: Those are understandable reactions to a cookbook with “perfect” or “fantastic” in its title. Bryn Williams’ first effort elicits both. Yet here’s why you should dive in.

Williams, 34, is the Welsh-born chef of Odette’s, the restaurant he opened in London in 2008. He has had enough of a presence in competitions and on cooking shows to register as a celebrity with British audiences. He has learned to prepare food simply and honor its origins and season, with generations of farmers, a job in his early teens at the elbow of a master baker and experience in the kitchens of some famous chefs (Marco Pierre White, Michel Roux) behind him.

Consequently, there’s much to like about “The Perfect Ingredient: 5 Fantastic Ways to Cook Apples, Beets, Pork, Scallops and More” (Kyle, March 2012; $35). The chef chose 20 ingredients — or, rather, 18 plus the headings of “Baked Goods” and “Preserves” — and offers five recipes for each. They vary in complexity, marked with one-, two- or three-pot icons. Fifteen basic recipes for stocks and sauces are thrown in for good measure.

With the exception of the “Game” chapter, even the cheffiest dishes are within the range of a competent home cook, such as the soft gnocchi pillows flavored with marjoram and the “posh” croquettes of mashed spuds rolled in flakes of almonds (both three-potters) in the “Potatoes” chapter. It doesn’t hurt that the food is beautifully photographed, bathed in light and shadow that make marinated mackerel and lemon curd look equally sexy. I wish the colored text of recipe ingredients was more readable, but that’s a quibble.

What cooks on this side of the Atlantic might appreciate most is a slightly different take on flavor combinations. Williams’ sensibility is approachable and appealing. Even if the book had been published in America with its original UK title, “Bryn’s Kitchen: 5 Brilliant Ways to Cook 20 Great Ingredients,” it would not disappoint.

Almond Potatoes

Makes 12 to 16 croquettes (3 or 4 servings)

This recipe elevates the tater tot, which is enjoying a few minutes of retro fame.

Serve with roasted meats or vegetables.

MAKE AHEAD: The croquettes need to be refrigerated (to firm up) for 30 minutes before they’re fried. Adapted from “The Perfect Ingredient,” by Bryn Williams (Kyle, 2012).

Ingredients

1 pound (2 large) russet potatoes, peeled and boiled, then mashed and cooled

2 large egg yolks, plus 2 large eggs

4 tablespoons ( 1/2 stick) unsalted butter, melted

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Pinch freshly grated nutmeg

3/4 cup flour, plus more as needed

1 cup thinly sliced (not slivered) almonds, crushed with your hands

Peanut or vegetable oil, for frying

Steps

Combine the mashed potatoes, the 2 egg yolks and the butter in a mixing bowl, stirring until well incorporated. Season with the salt and pepper to taste and the nutmeg.

Lightly beat the remaining 2 whole eggs in a bowl.

Spread the flour on a plate and the almonds on a separate plate. Use a little extra flour to lightly coat your hands, then form the potato mixture into 12 to 16 cylinders that are about 4 inches long. Roll them gently in the flour, then coat in the beaten egg, then roll in the almonds, making sure to coat the croquettes completely. Place on a plate and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Heat 3 to 4 inches of oil in a deep pan or skillet over medium-high heat to a temperature of 350 F. Line a baking sheet with a few layers of paper towels, then place a wire cooling rack on the paper.

Working with 4 at a time, gently lower the croquettes into the oil and fry for 1 or 2 minutes, turning them as needed, just until they are lightly browned and crisped on the outside. Use a slotted spatula to transfer to the rack to drain.

Serve warm.

Nutrition Per croquette (based on 16): 100 calories, 3 g protein, 7 g carbohydrates, 8 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 60 mg cholesterol, 30 mg sodium, 1 g dietary fiber, 0 g sugar.

Whole poached
chicken with lemon grass and bok choy

4 to 6 servings

This is comfort food that tastes clean and smells wonderful. If you want the option of heat and spice, make the chili sauce in the variation, below. Adapted from “The Perfect Ingredient,” by Bryn Williams (Kyle, 2012).

Ingredients

One 31/2-pound whole chicken, preferably organic, giblet packet removed

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 small red bird’s-eye chili pepper, stemmed, seeded and split lengthwise in half

1 stalk lemon grass, outer layer removed, smashed

4-inch piece (3 ounces) peeled ginger root, cut crosswise into thin slices

Water

1/2 cup uncooked long-grain white or brown rice

6 heads baby bok choy, rinsed well, then trimmed and cut in half lengthwise

Steps

Pat the chicken dry. Season it inside and out with salt and pepper to taste, then place in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan along with the split chili pepper, lemon grass and ginger. Cover with cold water (8 to 12 cups) and bring to a boil over high heat, using a spoon to skim off any scum/fat on the surface. Then reduce the heat to medium-low and cook (uncovered) for about 1 hour, skimming as needed.

To check the doneness of the chicken, lift it partially out of the liquid. Use a skewer or the long tines of a fork to poke it; the juices should run clear. When the chicken is done, remove the saucepan from the heat. Let the chicken cool in the liquid/broth for 30 minutes.

Transfer the whole chicken to a plate to cool. Strain the broth through a fine-mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth into a separate large saucepan. Discard the solids.

Place the rice in a small saucepan. Stir in 1 cup of the broth; bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce the heat to medium-low, cover and cook for about 10 minutes or until the broth has been absorbed. Turn off the heat.

While the rice is cooking, remove all of the chicken meat from the bone, keeping it in large pieces as much as possible. The yield should be at least 5 loosely packed cups. Discard the skin and bones.

Place the saucepan with the broth over medium-high heat. Add the poached chicken pieces and bring just to a boil, then add the bok choy. Cook for 2 minutes; the vegetables should be crisp-tender. Remove from the heat. Taste, and adjust the seasoning as needed.

To serve, divide the chicken, bok choy and broth evenly among individual bowls. Serve hot, with the rice on the side.

Variation: To make a simple chili sauce, stem 5 small red bird’s-eye chili peppers (seed if desired) and place them in a blender, along with 1 tablespoon of sugar, 1 tablespoon of low-sodium soy sauce and a splash of unseasoned rice wine vinegar. Puree until smooth. Transfer to a bowl for serving at the table.

Nutrition Per serving (based on 6): 290 calories, 36 g protein, 14 g carbohydrates, 9 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 105 mg cholesterol, 180 mg sodium, 1 g dietary fiber, 0 g sugar.

Curried scallops
with cauliflower
and coconut soup*

4 first-course servings or 2 main-course servings

The luxurious soup is thick enough to hold the scallops on its surface. The scallops are cooked for just 30 seconds on their second side, so their texture is just right by the time you eat them.

*About that asterisk in the title: You don’t have to serve this as a soup. We found that passing the cauliflower mixture through a fine-mesh strainer is time-consuming. As delicate and delicious as the silky soup is, the yield is fairly small. If you opt not to strain the cauliflower-coconut cream puree (but still season it), it can act as a soft bed for the scallops and yield enough for 4 first-course servings. Adapted from “The Perfect Ingredient,” by Bryn Williams (Kyle, 2012).

Ingredients

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter

1 small head cauliflower, finely chopped (preferably in a food processor; about 7 cups)

1 cup homemade or no-salt-added chicken broth

1/2 cup coconut cream (the thick cream from the top of 1 or 2 cans of coconut milk)

Pinch fine sea salt, plus more to taste

Pinch sugar

4 large dry-pack scallops (not soaked/packed in water)

2 teaspoons curry powder

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 lemon, cut in half

Steps

Melt the butter in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-low heat without allowing it to brown. Add the cauliflower and stir to coat; cook for 2 to 3 minutes (again without letting it brown). Stir in the broth and coconut cream; increase the heat to medium-high and bring to a boil. Cook just until the cauliflower is soft. Remove from the heat and immediately transfer to a blender. Remove the center knob in the lid and place a towel over the opening to avoid splash-ups. Puree to form a smooth soup.

Pass the soup through a fine-mesh strainer into a medium saucepan. Season with the salt and sugar to taste. The yield is about 11/4 cups. Partially cover and keep warm over the lowest possible heat setting.

Heat a heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat.

Use a paper towel to pat the scallops dry. Sprinkle them on both sides with the curry powder.

Pour the oil into the hot skillet and swirl to coat the bottom. Add the scallops and cook for 2 minutes on the first side until lightly browned on the edges, then turn them over and cook for 30 seconds. Transfer to a plate; season lightly with salt and a brief squeeze of lemon juice.

To serve, divide the soup among individual small, shallow bowls. Rest a scallop at the center of each portion. (For 2 servings, divide the scallops between bowls.)

Nutrition Per serving (based on 4): 280 calories, 8 g protein, 13 g carbohydrates, 24 g fat, 17 g saturated fat, 40 mg cholesterol, 260 mg sodium, 5 g dietary fiber, 5 g sugar.

Marjoram gnocchi

Makes 40 to 48 gnocchi (4 servings)

Gnocchi aren’t hard to make at home, and they’re far superior to any found in a package. They call for 00 flour, a finely ground durum wheat flour that helps the pasta hold its shape as it cooks. It is available at some grocery stores and at Italian markets.

You’ll need 3/4 cup rock salt for roasting the potatoes; resting them on a bed of it helps to draw out their moisture.

Save the scooped-out potato skins; deep-fry them until crisp, and sprinkle with sea salt to eat as a snack.

Serve the gnocchi with a light butter sauce and pan-fried fish.

Make ahead: The potatoes can be baked a day or two in advance; scoop out the flesh and mash, then cover and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before combining with the remaining dough ingredients. The gnocchi are best when formed and cooked just before serving. Adapted from “The Perfect Ingredient,” by Bryn Williams (Kyle, 2012).

Ingredients

3 large (about 11/2 pounds) russet potatoes, scrubbed well

3 large egg yolks

11/3 cups 00 flour (see headnote)

1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

1 teaspoon salt

1 handful fresh marjoram leaves, finely chopped (about 1/3 cup, loosely packed)

Steps

Preheat the oven to 325 F. Line a small roasting pan with 3/4 cup rock salt. Place the potatoes on top. Bake for 11/2 hours or until tender. Use tongs to transfer the potatoes to a cutting board; discard the salt. Cut the potatoes in half lengthwise and scoop out the flesh, transferring it to a bowl. Mash with a flexible spatula until smooth.

Add the egg yolks, 1 cup of the flour, the cheese, salt and marjoram. Mix well to form a silky, pliable dough.

Divide into 4 equal pieces. Use the remaining 1/3 cup of flour to dust the work surface and your hands. Roll each piece into a long rope with a diameter of about1/2 inch. Use a sharp, smooth-edged knife to cut each rope crosswise into 1-inch pieces (gnocchi), which should look like little pillows.

Bring a large pan of water to a rolling boil over medium-high heat. Add a generous pinch of salt. Drop half of the gnocchi into the water; cook until they float to the surface and look slightly puffed. Use a slotted spoon to transfer to a bowl (or pan with melted butter over low heat). Repeat to cook all of the gnocchi.

Serve hot.

Nutrition Per serving: 380 calories, 12 g protein, 64 g carbohydrates, 8 g fat, 4 g saturated fat, 170 mg cholesterol, 790 mg sodium, 6 g dietary fiber, 1 g sugar.